All posts by mlopian

Berlin, you romance me

We step off the train in Berlin at Berlin HBF, the main train station. And I don’t know why but I felt alive again. In Germany once more, with their amazing cream and jelly filled doughnuts and their wide array of beer. The train station is huge, filled with levels of shops and places to eat, with people commuting here and there. This place definitely has a very different feel from where we’ve visited so far. As we step out people are more relaxed. There are hipsters everywhere, rocking the I don’t give a hoot candor attitude. The sky is a bit dark, and the ground is wet as the rain slowly drizzles onto our bags. We walk to the hostel, the heart of gold. We’re greeted by a redhead, with two toned hair. The lounge is filled with people in a colorful array of parachute pants and long knit sweaters, with loosely held hair. There are people painting in the middle of the lounge, people playing pool and of course the Aussies in the corner striking up a conversation with the bartender. We are warmly greeted upon arrival by the receptionist who was very polite and after she checked us in she even walked us to our rooms, which was a little weird because as we returned to the lounge we both noticed she didn’t walk anyone else to their room, only a point and go that way. After we placed our luggage in our room we decided to go out and see what Berlin had to offer. The city has been called “sexy” by the chancellor. Poor but sexy. Far more affordable than other areas of Germany, but still relatively high compared to Eastern Europe. There is an ease about Berlin, a pep in their step and a different “swag”, I like it. One of our first nights out we met an American and a spaniard. We decide to check out the nightlife in Berlin where we stumble across an underground club. Above ground you can hear some music but you see absolutely nothing. There are two security guards that are standing outside. We enter and they frisk us, immediately a guy tells us to come into this room and the door shuts. There’s a sofa in the middle of this room, all of a sudden the floors move, it’s an elevator and the door raises. There’s neon green and blue lights and music blasting. We then have to go through another checkpoint.

The first night there we just roamed the streets of Berlin for hours just taking it alI in. At 3 am we decided to head back to our room and call it a night, we had to be up early to switch rooms and go on our free tour. We got up at 9 unfortunately they didn’t have a free breakfast, but we made the best of our little restaurant cafe danieèl and Màián aka grocery store love. Our tour may have been the longest yet most informative tour yet. Our tour started at 11 and finished a little after 6 yet the time seemed to fly by. We were taken everywhere, from where Hitler was killed/ committed suicide, to where Berlin was split into 4 sections to memorials commemorating those who lost their lives to the nazis and the allied forces. They had a monument of a mother with the roof above her head missing which we thought was pretty cool, it signified how if it was raining it looked as though she was crying and when it was snowing it was though she was caught in a storm, and it was cold and harsh. It depicted the loved ones she lost, her 3 sons one of whom was only 9 and the lost ones in Germany. At the end of the war when hitler lost all his men he was sending children to the battlefield to be pretty much slaughtered. Innocent kids who had no idea of right and wrong who were simply following orders. After the tour we ended up going back to the hostel and checking back into our new room where we ended up dozing off for a few hours. When we finally woke it was about 10 and we went to the common area to meet up with a few people to enjoy our last night in this “sexy” city.

Tid bit for the day: The women on the street corners stopping you to talk are not your friends.

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Prague and Lady Gaga

We just arrived in Prague. We flip a coin to decide between two hostels: the Czech Inn or the mosaic house. The mosaic house won. As we’re checking in an older guy comes up to us and asks if we just arrived, we said yes and he said his wife is sick so they cannot go to the lady Gaga concert, he hands me the tickets and tells me the show starts at 7:30 and that it takes 20 minutes to get there by metro, so all we have time to do is change drop our bags off and be on our way. Our first night in Prague and we got free Lady Gaga tickets. The concert was so much fun! I was stunned, I honestly didn’t know that lady Gaga had such an amazing voice. She’s quite the show woman. The lights were blaring, lasers chasing other lasers in the arena, people jumping, screaming, singing. So much energy. I could feel my heart beat with the base. The seats were in the middle but we could see everything. Daniel was even pleasantly surprised by how good the concert was. It was a good start to our stay in Prague.
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The next day we get up to a late start and decide to go to Kunta Hora. In Kunta Hora there is a church made with the remains of 40,000 people. It’s a little eerie but a must see. They have an entire chandelier in the church made of bones. I thing the guy who did this was a little insane, but who am I to judge someone’s creative outlet? He was nuts. The town itself however is small, and there really isn’t much to see but the church. We head back to the hostel to enjoy the rest of our day.

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My mothers village: Lugoj

It’s early, dawn hasn’t broken yet. The night sky blankets this little town. We’re standing at the train station as I profusely yawn from lack of sleep. It’s a little chilly, I can see my breath. With no benches inside the station, Daniel and I decide to venture the town. Immediately as we leave the station we’re greeted by a cemetery. It’s a very odd place to have one, we thought. There weren’t many epitaphs laying in the ground. But it was all centered and it looked like fresh flowers had been laid on the graves. Maybe they were important people?. We venture further. The streets are small, and although the shops are closed they don’t appear to be anything fancy. At night this place was the quintessential version of a small town that you see in movies with tumbleweeds running the streets as a breeze blows by. We walk a little further and we start to see kids, everywhere. School must be starting, but it’s only 6:30 in the morning. Daniel gets the curious glances as we walk by, nothing malicious just curiosity, almost every kid would stare then as he would pass them their heads would snap back to continue. He felt as though he was a celebrity, he loved the looks and asked one kid if he wanted his picture and autograph. The sky is getting lighter and we have found ourselves at what they call the iron bridge. The view was actually quite beautiful. There are flowers everywhere. As we sit for a second we hear the cackles of birds, lots of them. There were so many that part of the sky was blanketed and you could only catch glimpses of light through their wings. They were all perched on buildings across the bridge and begin flying in flocks only to land on the same building they had been at previously. We decide to have our breakfast, our typical meat and jelly sandwiches buffet as we take the view in. As we cross the bridge we see women sweeping the bridge with what looks like a bunch of small dark brown branches. It honestly resembled a witches broom. I’m not sure why but Daniel and I found it to be quite funny. As we cross the bridge we’re greeted by more children and churches. We decide to enter one of the churches. After a while you begin to think you’ve seen a few churches you’ve seen them all. But no. We were stunned. This little town held a church that was stunning. Honestly, more beautiful than the Sistine chapel. The artwork, the detail, the gold lacing the brown wood. It really was a beautiful church. I only we wish we took pictures. As we stood there with our backpacks we’re pushed aside as children come in to pray before school. I never thought I would see this. They were praying before school on their own asking for the lords blessing as they start their day, it seemed as though this was their daily routine. They looked liked they were in middle school. We left the church and came across a small park with character, we took a few pictures in the hopes that it will jog my mothers memory.
My mom was born in Lugoj Romania, and she left when she was small. But she tells us of stories of gypsy caravans selling rooster whistles and chintzed covered tasseled ottomans. Where fires were started to keep warm as the gypsies would sit in circles and read locals palms. She told us of getting from place to place with horse and carriage, where there were no roads yet. She described her fondness for sweets at an early age, where she would beg her mother for some of the best pastries. She told us of the very cold winters and how one winter she was playing in the snow and as she was called in she looked at a snowman and the snowman smiled at her. Her memories of Romania were magical as a little girl. I only hope that if she decides to one day return that she find this small flowery town filled with children just as magical as she remembers.

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Germany Part I: Our full bellies and the Aussies

Our Arrival: Stuttgart

“Hi, are you Daniel?” A fresh faced young woman asked. She was fair and thin with dark hair. She dawned a down filled black coat with stylish boots, suited for the weather. “Yes”, Daniel replied. The woman’s name was Youan, she was the fiancée of the gentleman who graciously opened his home for Daniel and I to stay in for the upcoming week. His name was Ian, his stature was small but strong. He showcased a typical military cut for a haircut, his eyes appeared cunning, but very friendly. They arrived at the station to pick us up. For the next week we were in heaven. We had a warm place to sleep with a very comfortable bed. There was a shower with hot water. Our bellies remained full of both food and beer. And we had good company. Our stay allowed us to catch up on much needed sleep. But let me tell you something, they’re crazy! Legitimately insane. We stayed up one night hitting the town with the both of them until 6 in the morning. I can’t, I’m 24 and I can not party like Ian. I feel old, and as much as I want to, my body won’t let me. We were all over Stuttgart, and it was an amazing night. We learned a lot about German nightlife, and how some clubs and bars won’t let you in if you’re American. But we got to take in the nightlife- and it’s far more exciting than anything in NC. You have people who are sloshed bumping into you, you have no elbow room because it’s that packed. The person to the right of you orders one too many shots and hands you one, while the person to your left cheers you with his beer. The whole night had so much energy and it honestly was just a great time.
We were we’ll taken care of in Germany. Thank you both Ian and Youan for your hospitality and generosity and for all the travel advice, you guys were great!

Stuttgart
When staying at a hostel you have to book it for the amount of people and they give you the same number of beds unless you get a private room which we rarely do because it’s so expensive. We always get these little twin sized mattresses that can barely fit a teenage boy in yet we are so used to sleeping together and holding each other at night that we can’t sleep apart from each other. We tried to sleep in separate beds on the trip and we spent most of the night asking each other how they liked having a bed to themselves, which neither of us really fancied. But in Germany this wasn’t a problem we had plenty of space to toss and turn and not head butt each other like we did one night in the twin bed. Our first day in Stuutgart was a very relaxed day we checked out the city where we were staying in. We went to the zoo which was fairly decent nothing that’s really any different from the states, then we went to check out downtown Stuttgart. Downtown Stuttgart is a mans worst nightmare, there are clothing and shoe stores literally hundreds of them running the strip and of course we have to stop in at least 99 1/2. We spent the better part of the day walking in and out of stores looking for shoes and clothes for the upcoming winter months. After walking around we stopped at a park in the middle of the shopping district and joined the Germans in the grass with a beer. We laid out for about an hour talking and people watching and just taking in the atmosphere. We saw what we thought was a woman get undressed in the middle of the park only to find out once he turned around from the giggles that it was a man in drag. This ended the day at the park and we left to return home. When we got back Ian and Youan prepared a feast like no other with possibly the best spread I have ever tasted, feta and garlic in spicy oil. We went to bed with full stomachs from a homemade meal for the first time in weeks, nothing beats that down south cooking with a European flair.

Oktoberfest
We went to bed pretty early because the famed Oktoberfest was the next day. We were told we needed to get there pretty early in order to get into the tent because they fill up pretty quickly, but waking up isn’t as easy as you think when you actually have a comfortable bed. We set the first alarm for 6, then after a little discussion we set it for seven, then 8, and we finally convinced ourselves at 9 we would get up and start getting ready. We actually didn’t leave the house until a little after 11. We made a couple sandwiches and hit the road. The train ride there was pretty easy two hour straight shot and free with the eurail. After arriving in Munich at about 2 we had no idea where to go we figured we would just follow the people in lederhosen. While following the crowd we ran into our two new favorite Aussies Dominique and Stuart.
Our Australian friends had been to Oktoberfest the day before so we decided to tag along. After a quick ten minute walk Oktoberfest was right in front of us, it looked nothing like I imagined. I thought it would be similar to a frat party, but during the day it’s family oriented like a fair. It had a huge Ferris wheel and games with gigantic Stewies as prizes. Everywhere there is beer, men dressed in lederhosen and women dressed in dirndls. There are rides and blaring lights everywhere. There are tents filled with people who are in song and dance prosting their beers and eating half a chicken. We enter the first tent hoping they have a place for us and we are in luck as soon as we get in a waitress asks how many grabs our hand and throws us down. She holds up 4 fingers and asks 4 beers and with a large grimacing smile on our faces we all nodded in sync. We get our first round and we are expecting it to be a little pricey, but not to this extreme it was 10 euro 13 US dollar per beer for pretty much the size of a 40 (1 liter) but hey when in Rome. A few minutes in after we are enjoying our beer the tent erupts with cheers and our two Aussie friends start joining in. We look around a little lost trying to figure out what’s going on and they inform us that if you stand on a table and chug your beer they will cheer until you finish, but you can’t stop to catch your breath and if you don’t finish you have to pour the rest on your head and people get to throw food at you. A huge smile came across my face as I knew I had to try it. After a German man who was a little past drunk at our table graciously bought us another beer I knew my moment was here. I stood up thinking mom I’m gonna make you proud (I’m not sure if that’s something to be proud of haha) I stood on the table and everyone was staring and starting to cheer, once I started I knew I couldn’t stop. With the adrenaline pumping and I knew I couldn’t fail, I could feel all the cool bubbles go down my throat and the gas and liquid fill my tummy. A few seconds later the cheers starting erupting. I finished my beer and basked in the glory like I just clinched the gold for my country at the Olympics. For a second it sounded like the crowd was chanting my name and I was famous. I took my seat and everyone at the table was in applause. After the initial shock wore off I was greeted with hugs and high fives. This was just the first tent in the first 20 minutes and the day was just getting started.

We left that tent and walked around for a bit until we found another tent and decided it was time for another brew. We ordered a couple of beers and an apple strudel which was pretty delicious, but didn’t sit well with a tummy full of beer. We stayed in this tent for a few hours singing and making new friends. Everyone was in cheer, beer flying everywhere as people raised their glasses to prosit and sing, we all stood up on the small benches cheering joining our German counterparts. Around 9 we left that tent and decided to grab some food outside Oktoberfest, because the prices inside were insanely high. We stopped and got a bite with our Awesome Aussie friends and then said our good byes and headed back to the train station. This was perhaps the longest two hour train ride I have been on and the walk back home was even longer, but we finally made it back into our sweet little comfortable bed ending one of the best travel days we have had thus far.
Thank you Dominique and Stuart for a wonderful experience.

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Oh how bright you shine Budapest

I’m sitting here in Stuttgart with a full belly. Having had my share of cereal and salad for breakfast this morning. I feel somewhat nervous for our next journey. I think I’m going to miss the comforts of having a proper bed to sleep in. Not sleeping on the train and being woken up at every odd hour by a ticket checker. Or being caught in the early hours of the morning in a train station. Traveling can be hard, or at least the way we’re traveling. It has given us a new perspective on things and how much we take for granted being able to do laundry and shower. Or the power to wake up late on the weekends. Often times we find ourselves waking early for hostels have early checkout times or because we’ve camped out by the beach and need to beat the morning joggers to dawn.

We caught the train from Stuttgart to Munich and I suppose my trepidations, although for the wrong reason were right. Our train malfunctioned and we sat in sweltering heat for four hours. We waited and waited for a train to relieve us from this hot box of a sauna. The woman in front of us was wearing a wool sweater and within minutes of the train stopping her light grey became a little darker due to the sweat stains. In a matter of minutes she took her sweater off and was only in her white laced bra. Women, men children alike gathered at the few doors the conductors opened to catch a small breeze. There were no windows to open and if you decided to stay put in your seat within five minutes you were in a pool of your own sweat. The weather was unusually warm- Daniel and I have seemed to have pretty good luck when we travel to places in terms of sunny weather.

We arrive in Munich, finally, where there are a slew of complaints for the travelers who have spent cash on tickets and reservations and who missed their connections because of the delay. There was no way to refund them the cash. Credit card was fine, but cash wasn’t feasible. A young lady, fellow traveler spent 400 euros on multiple tickets and reservations and lost it all and missed her connections because of the delay. They were unwilling to remake any of her reservations again without charge.
I think in that moment we really appreciated the eurail.

We arrive in Budapest. Not knowing where the center is and Daniel and I being frugal in our travels decided to walk around the city with our bags.
Our first goal was to find a hostel. Again, we didn’t look any up before arriving, so in true Daniel and Maian fashion we walked around asking people. We found four hostels through travelers, hop and stop people and on accident. We decided on the Marco Polo. It wasn’t anything special but it was cheaper than the other hostels, gave us a 10% discount and accepted credit cards.

The city, during the day, was like most cities, it had it’s beautiful parts and it’s ugly ones. Upon arrival we had agreed to go to one of the baths. After very little research and going on Facebook pictures we decided on the ever popular schzencsky baths. We walked 40 minutes to get there and it was worth it. Just pools of water all at different temperatures some with jet streams some with fountains, some that were ice cold, some that had overlaying ceramic artwork. All within the center of a very yellow building. If you didn’t know what it was you would walk straight past it. Old, young everyone was there. The weather was great, the water exhilarating and the saunas relaxing. We spent hours just relaxing.
Later on that night Daniel and I were looking at pictures of some landmarks in Budapest and came across Matthais church. We decided to walk there. Budapest is two cities. The flat part is Pest, that’s where we were staying. The Buda part is the hilly area, where the church was.
OH MY GOD. If any of you have ever heard me talk about a place being magical you’ll almost always hear me bring up my hike through the Israeli dessert. Where at night you can not sleep because it is bone chilling cold but for a few seconds you forget because you stare up at the dark sky not contaminated with artificial lights and your eyes are just blanketed with stars and the moon so bright you could walk the night with it leading your way. It’s an incredible sight. But Budapest at night, is spellbinding.
I cannot find the words to describe this city at night to you. It’s like a fairy tale. We walked across the chain bridge at night and it is so romantic. There weren’t many tourists out and the lights were perfectly placed it hit every angle of every building perfectly. I think it’s safe to say that Daniel and I were breathless when we saw the city at night. We walked up so many steps to find this gorgeous church sitting at the very top decorated wonderfully with Maiolica colored tiles on the top. For a split second you forget where you are and what time frame you live in and you go back in time and imagine a time where this was a sanctuary, 700 years back. This city at night is a breath of fresh air and makes you weak in your knees. Daniel and I just sat there, taking it all in. Not distracted by cars or people because there weren’t many. And if ever you wanted to see Budapest, night is the best time.
During the day there is no magic or take your breath away moments. But still a city with a lot of history, and some pain. With a predominantly Roman Catholic and Jewish population. The Hungarians are an interesting group of people with many outside influences. And some really great plum alcohol ;).

Tid bit for the day: A two hour walk with backpacks on can feel like a 20 minute adventure when you’re with good company.

*** for all those waiting on our Germany experience! we’re still in the midst of writing it.

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The lost world: Bulgaria

Bang, bang…Bulgaria! Bulgaria! The man shouts. The train is getting ready to leave elsewhere. Daniel and I had fallen asleep on the train and slept thirty minutes longer on the train when we arrived in Bulgaria. Awakened and confused we mustered what little strength we had from our demanding trip and lifted our heavy bags for Bulgaria. There was a fresh chill that we haven’t felt before. The weather was cooler than what we had experienced in Greece.
Dirt! The walls are stained and half the buildings outside of the train station look dilapidated, a whistle of air would cause its ultimate collapse. In search of a place to stay we traveled to the center of the city. We were in Sofia.

Hostel Mostel, the name that we gravitated towards. This particular hostel was hidden in the city. If you didn’t know it existed you wouldn’t be the wiser. A sliver of space masked between two shops with large awnings and a small sign. All you see is some sheet metal. Having walked by it three times, the lady watching over one shop noticed our large bags and knew we were travelers. She pointed us out in the right direction. We had to ring a buzzer and waited a few seconds, barely fitting through the walkway with our bags we’re welcomed by mud…no buildings just dirt. We walk around the corner and see a group of people sitting outside with black and white kittens in their laps. We have arrived. We’re immediately greeted by two of the nicest receptionist, no, people, we’ve ever met. So genuinely charming, and sincere. They inform us that all they have available is a six bedroom dorm that includes breakfast and dinner. We agree to it. We’re shown to where we’ll be staying for the night. It was a charming room with striped wallpaper accenting one of the walls and lots of ambience. Our roommates were two guys from the Czech Republic and two guys from northern Spain. All very nice.

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We decide to walk around the city and found ourselves close to the market. Daniel indulged in a Bulgarian burger that was huge covered in Bulgarian yogurt, cilantro, peppers, pickles, tomatoes, lettuce, mayo, ketchup and fries. Worth every bit of the four lev. We also witnessed some of the largest coil flower we’ve ever seen. They had a plethora of fruits and vegetables at the market.

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After walking around for a bit we headed back to the hostel for dinner and a pub crawl.

The sun rose, and it was morning. We stored our luggage and headed for free tours of Sofia and a free food tour!
Bulgaria has so much history- it’s quite amazing. They have been conquered and then conquered until finally they were free. Sofia is the second oldest capital in the world to Athens. They’re buildings tell a story from the Roman Empire to World War Two. Mosques had once enveloped churches that were then recreated to be churches once more. This city saved 50,000 Jews during the holocaust due to the words they live by: procrastination, 15 minutes late is early. It seems to be a lifestyle, that and the king heard word of what was really happening and delayed it every three months due to “roads under construction”. You can see shrapnel marking in their courthouse from World War II.
After our free tour of the city we headed for a free food tour and had some of the most amazing authentic Bulgarian food and vegetarian friendly :).
All in all, a lost city found, one that we were unsure of visiting, and one that we’ll be back to see but a different city and maybe the mountains.

Tid bit for the day: Bringing toilet paper is very useful. And honestly you should bring wipes. I was on a train sleeping when I felt something crawling on my leg. OMG it was a roach! I killed it on my leg and my sixth grade girl high pitched shriek caused people in the train to stare. I went to the bathroom to try and clean myself but these crazy people didn’t have any soap or tissue so I rinsed it off but still had to sit in a train with roaches…while Maian laughed.

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Santorini In My Weenie

You know all those beautiful pictures you see in magazines about Santorini Greece….they’re lies!!!! Those pictures give you the illusion that all of Santorini is beautiful, and in some way, shape or form, it is, just not like the pictures. If Paul Bunyan had a cousin Santorini would be his nephew.
We arrived early in the morning off the ferry and managed to haggle with an older Greek gentleman to get a room for 30 euro including transportation to the hotel. Get your hotel before you go to Santorini they have some very cheap options that Are on the beach and offer transportation to and from the port no matter what time you arrive. On our way to the hotel you have to go about 3/4 of a mile up a winding narrow laned cliff with traffic coming and going both ways and all the vehicles are stick shift….needless to say I was sort of freaking out. We arrived at the hotel in one piece. The room was actually quite lovely. I started to chat with the guy at the desk and ask questions about where he was from, if he liked Santorini, dealing with tourists, his name etc…and just because of a few simple questions we got a later checkout…yes! We needed it. After checkout we walked about two miles to our next stay: the villa dimitris. The owner there was warm and very inviting. She showed us to our room. The room was called a studio, we had our own bathroom and a sink and mini fridge, it was cheaper than all the other rooms on the island and served its purpose just as well. We decided to rent an atv 150cc for 25 euros….it took us all over the island in one day! The island isn’t very big. You can also rent a small car for 30 euros a day…but you honestly don’t need it more than a day. Most of our time was spent hanging out at the black and red sand beaches.
As far as the Greek people….they have no sense of hospitality. I think they’re rude, you can ask a question to someone who deals with tourists all the time and they just shrug and walk away….my thoughts..I’ve come to visit this place and pay money to do things on this island and you’re going to be rude…absolutely not. I’m pretty sure tourism drives half the money circulating on the island alone…they’re surly and rude and honestly if you can avoid dealing with them, I would recommend it. There were a few that were very pleasant but the majority left a bad taste in my mouth…
Oh and NEVER EVER take a bus on the island. It’s expensive and doesn’t take you to many places.

The second day we woke up at six and caught an amazing sunrise. We asked a local and he told us to watch it on the beach near our hotel but our advice is go to Oia, you will see it coming up from behind the adjacent islands and peer out over the ocean like a child playing peek a boo with their mother.
The beaches are beautiful and during the peak season I’m sure there are a lot of people partying but off season it’s very chilled and laid back. It’s still very hot though.
ATVs are definitely worth renting and a lot of fun.
On our way to Oktoberfest! Turn up!!!

Oh and everyone who suggested we plan, you guys were all right, we now have to backtrack. But it’s okay.

Side not there are a lot of random dogs in Greece that you may mistake for dead, but trust us they aren’t and don’t get to close to them

Tid bit for the day: bring your own sunblock!! on Santorini the sunblock is 15 euros for a small container that will only cover half your back. Crazy.

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Athens: The Giant Turd & The 7 P’s

We arrive in Athens and it is dirty. Dirty and busy. It’s a city filled with a medley of people who are drinking Freddo cappuccinos everywhere. Some areas were nicer than others. We sat in the center of syntagma using the free wifi to find where we’re going to sleep because it certainly won’t be on these streets of this city. We find a hostel and walk for 20minutes only to find out it is fully booked. The woman at the front told us to look at some hotels, there are plenty in the area. We check out a few hotels and they are all fully booked. We come across one hotel and there are three women standing outside, in neon tight fitting short clothing, they honestly looked like prostitutes, I look at Daniel and think this is probably not where we want to stay, I tell him not to bother asking but of course he goes to ask anyway, and the hotel was full. I guess this city has a lot to offer. We finally stumble on to this small hotel-Hotel Artemision. From the outside, the lobby and the elevator, the hotel looked pretty good and the cost for a room at the hotel was the same price we would’ve paid for a hostel, 25 euro per night. Well we get upstairs to our room and this hotel is a shit hole. The room is outdated and doesn’t look very clean, it is filled with bad artificial lighting, something resembling that of a prison. The walls were dirty and the bed soiled and dark. The pillows were stained and we had one bathroom that we shared with an entire floor- which usually is okay in a hostel because they keep the bathrooms clean. The only thing keeping us from the dirty mattress were clean sheets that didn’t even cover the whole bed! I had to use the restroom so I go to the one on our floor. There are two stalls. I go to lift the lid of one of the toilets and a fly flies out and there’s a giant turd sitting there almost touching the rim- I’m mortified. I go to the next stall and there’s shit sitting there on top of a pile of toilet paper. Do people not know how to flush? I go to another floor and find a clean toilet- but it doesn’t flush! There’s no water to flush any thing! Not only that, in Greece you are not to flush any toilet paper down the toilets, your supposed to place ALL toilet paper in a trash bin beside the toilet. So when you lift that bin you smell and see everything. I mean soiled toilet paper covered in poo, some toilet paper as yellow as a crayon and some covered in blood- yes a bit gross, but true. After this mess, we decide to go around and find something to eat. We find this huge pastry shop, everything looked so delicious! We decided to go for dessert before we ate dinner and we got two free cookies in addition to our sweets, maybe it’s because we were being so nice to the cashier and he taught us a few Greek words or maybe it was customary I don’t know but we liked it. The officer on patrol there gave us directions to an authentic Greek restaurant. It was called Neon and it was very good. Daniel ordered moussaka and I ordered a Greek salad with some artichokes ( I can’t remember the name of this dish but it was artichokes, with potatoes and carrots cooked in olive oil with lemon juice and dill, very flavorful) and a traditional Greek beer which was very aromatic. I will caution all those going to Greece- the bread is not free, it usually costs about a euro and they bring it out without you asking, if you eat it, you pay for it. However the bread goes well with traditional Greek meals to soak up the oil and absorb the wine. Traditional meals are eaten at a relaxed slow pace and wine is cheap here. We went back to the hotel to get ready to sleep, it was very hot in the room so we had to open the doors leading to the balcony. The one good thing about this hotel was the balcony and the check out time which was at 12:00 PM. We leave the hotel the next day with our backpacks and decide to explore Athens. We hopped on the metro towards acropolis. Acropolis cost 6 euros for us with our student IDs and they had a place where we could store our bags for free… What’s crazy about all of this is they don’t check for tickets at the baggage place…and then if you enter from the backside all they ask for are student IDS not tickets….so does that mean that we could’ve gotten in for free and still dropped off our luggage? I think so. After two in a half hours of exploring and walking we finished our tour and headed to the port to catch a ferry to Santorini.

Tid bit for the day: Follow the seven P’s: Proper Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance. If we properly prepared for a place to stay we would’ve had a place to stay that we had thoroughly checked out. But we tend to do things spur of the moment which doesn’t always leave us with much wiggle room. But we’re learning.

** side note: all markets and restaurants are closed on Sundays in Greece. If you need to eat a bakery is your best bet. After 5 or so they sell all their pies for 1 euro, which is a pretty good deal.

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The Pilgrimage to Greece: Miriam

“He has said to me to go to Israel. My name is Miriam, it’s holy, and I am from Holland on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. I have nothing, no passport, no money, I get everything through gods will.” Miriam was small and blonde, she knew a lot and was on a journey of her own when we met her at the port on our way to Greece. She had confessed to crying a few days earlier for her travels have been lonely and asked if we could be her company for the ride over. We said yes. She boarded with us onto the second class deck, we sat there for a few hours talking, but she generally kept saying that she was on a pilgrimage. I was a little skeptical at first, to tell you the truth I thought she was suffering from a mental breakdown , while Daniel held open arms. The wind started to pick up and the deck became an uncomfortable place to sleep. Two other travelers came up to us and asked us where we were sleeping, and before we could answer said that they were sneaking into the airseats section inside. Miriam scoped it out and 30 minutes later we were sitting peacefully in cushioned seats with no wind and a tv to watch as we dozed off to sleep. There was absolutely no one in there at 9:00 pm around 10:30 you could see the other travelers walking in glancing around to make sure they weren’t going to get caught. To tell you the truth, I think 97% of the people that slept there didn’t reserve a seat, and no one came to check! I don’t think anyone cared.

It was morning and we just hit Igoumenitsa. Miriam had mentioned she needed a swimsuit as she was going to use that as her way to bathe herself at the beach. Having brought an extra pair, I gave it to her. She told us that she was traveling without a passport and that her only way into Jerusalem would be through Syria, it was gods will that she not take a passport for he’ll bring her protection. I think she’s very bold and has a very strong faith regardless of her family and friends believing in science more than a god. I truly wish her all the best. We arrived at our destination Patras, and there we parted ways with Miriam.

Tid bit for the day: When traveling you have no idea how much shit you can get for free, literally. You just can’t be scared. People are lazy, everywhere! Just walk in and they don’t ask, just sit, or talk to people and be very polite. It can get you a lot. Smile. And if anything happens….well, you didn’t know.

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Croatia: the travelers trail

Zagreb, should we stay, should we go? Knowing very little about Croatia, we decided to follow the backpackers, in particular one backpacker named Zack. He was 26 and somewhat of a stout fellow with dark hair, glasses and a warm smile. You could tell he was well educated but very friendly. He worked for a company working to improve the environment and was headed to Split. So we followed him onto that seven hour train ride, only hoping that at the end there would be a beach. On the outskirts possibly 30 km out Split seemed like an industrial town which neither of us wanted to visit. We both agreed before we even saw the town that we would stay an hour explore find a market then leave. We got far more than what we expected. Split was right off the beach, the ground looked white and clean, almost a posh place. We needed food, so we found a grocery store opened at 7 AM, and for feta, a large Fanta, a good heeping of ham from the deli and two loaves of bread the total cost was $5.46 US dollars! Everything here was so cheap! After exploring the city and crossing paths with the crew of the game of thrones as they were filming a fight scene we were on our way to find a hostel. We walked around for an hour looking for a hostel and stumbled across some Americans doing the same. Their guide was an MTV Europe travelers book from the 90s. It was hilarious! We went our separate ways, and eventually Daniel and I found an apartment we could rent for a night. It was private we had the space all to ourselves and it was cheaper than a hostel and just as close to the pier. After an intense half hour of bargaining to get a cheaper price and looking at different places I was a little frustrated. I cried for a few minutes in front of a church it may have had something to do with Daniel’s persistence to get an apartment it was a mixture of exhaustion and frustration and my cycle, I suppose the realization that traveling isn’t always glamorous hit me , and maybe having a total of 3 hours of scattered sleep in the past 54 hrs. But I knew that before I left, for I had traveled before. Once Daniel and I hit the bed later in the afternoon we fell straight asleep. We slept for four hours and then decided to grab something to eat. We found a local restaurant that had huge helpings of food for super cheap. When we got there there was a line of people made up of both locals and travelers. The host would sit people with strangers at a table to make room for everyone to eat. We both really enjoyed that. We were sat with four guys from Greece with hefty dark beards who took taxis, trains and a bus to get to Croatia. After realizing that Croatia doesn’t really use credit cards he asked if they did, which of course they didn’t. So it’s about 10 at night and all the places to exchange currencies are closed and it looks like we won’t be eating a delicious Croatian meal this evening. After running around we stumbled across a place that was closed, but since the employees were so caught up in the soccer game they forgot to close up. We entered and they said they would help us out after we pleaded with them that we wouldn’t be able to eat unless they helped. Since Croatia was so cheap we exchanged only 28 US dollars and received 154 konas. We rushed back to the restaurant praying that they weren’t closed just yet and to our luck it was still open. The host told us to seat ourselves and perhaps the cheapest yet most filling dinner I have had was served. Our server came to greet us, he was tall, slender, with dark features and could speak five languages (English, French, Italian, German and Croatian). Our meal consisted of pasta with the most amazing tomato sauce I’ve had in a while and a local fish ( two whole fish) cooked in olive oil and a side of mashed potatoes. It was good meal to end our day with for our journey was to start again tomorrow for Greece.

Tid bit for the day: Before you and your woman go around the world you need to either make sure she’s menopausal or get her on the shot so she doesn’t have a period for six months ie no PMS and no crazy lady emotions for a week straight.

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